Exchange rate: £1 = 108.5 Nepalese Rupees (Rs)

Saturday 13th October ~ Langtang Village, Kyanjin Gompa
A cool fresh morning with a steady breeze. Good view of the mountains around and up the valley, down duvet jackets needed. The al fresco breakfast was today marred by sugared scrambled eggs that no-one could stomach. Not so much off the drier as yesterday we collected a good deal of things with fleshy fruit. MW left his badger hair shaving brush behind on a rock by his tent. Two porters from Dhunche left today (tips 150 Rs). We still have 9 Kathmandu porters. A few stones were seen jumping out of rucksacks and flying around the camp and serious injury was narrowly avoided. Broke camp at 8pm, the route out of the village passed by some marshy ground and foetid ponds. MW borrowed a hay rake off a bemused farmer to collect a floating Potamegeton, and foolishly stuck his arm in the stagnant water to gather some submerged aquatics (including a moss). Rising up above the marsh the trail is flanked by a magnificent mani wall that continues on for many hundreds of meters. The carvings in the rocks look stunning in the low angled sunlight and shadows. A big flock of Snow Pigeons was seen. Near the village there are extensive old field systems with high stone walls. Most of these are now abandoned and home to some splendid ruderal species including a tall Rheum and a Selinum. The fields soon peter out, giving way to dry scrub and alpine pasture. Lunch was at 10.30, in a wind blown spot next to the Langtang Khola. We had crossed over a stone wall and this side there was heavy yak grazing: only the spiny shrubs of Caragana seemed to thrive on this regime. Thankfully the yaks kept their distance while we ate. Soon after lunch we ascended into the higher alpine zone with dwarf rhododendron scrub and the moraine landscape around Kyanjin Gompa. We arrived at Kyanjin Gompa, 3800m, at 2pm to find our tents pitched on the edge of this village of lodges, rude farm houses and byres. The scenery is dominated by two big glaciers coming down from the huge Langtang peaks above, but the village itself is ugly from recent development. The weather was very changeable here (even more so than Edinburgh!), and the sunshine that greeted our arrival was soon replaced by a forceful downpour of hailstones. This soon passed and we could attend to processing the collections, which was progressing well until the wind whipped up and it started raining. Fortunately we could move into the work tent, but we could not save our laundry which was now dripping on the drying lines strung between our tents. Yaks moved in to our campsite to shelter from the wind and rain, which finally died out as darkness falls. The sky was very clear and DK, our resident weather guru, predicted a hard frost. Down duvet jackets were needed for supper.

Sunday 14th October ~ Kyanjin Gompa
As DK predicted, we woke up to the grass coated in white. Eight degrees inside our tents, minus three degrees outside. The wet clothes on the drying line were stiff as a board. Those in the know had put their socks around the drying frame last night. Like Lama Hotel this is a popular trekking stop and there are at least five camping parties in the areas around us. One of the groups was base camp for a Japanese mountaineering expedition climbing Langtang Lirung: a ‘trekking peak’. The yaks and many dzo’s (yak/cow hybrids) wandered freely between the buildings and tents. Occasional smells of sewage added to the farmyard ambience, but the heady incense from burning Rhododendron setosum brings a welcome relief for your nose. The valley sides are steep and the sun did not reach camp until 7am. Bed tea is drunk all muffled up in our warmest gear, but when the sun struck our tents we stripped off to the waist to wash in our bowls of warm water, steam rising around our bodies. Breakfast outside in the warm sunshine, chapati and omelette went down very well. Armed with packed lunches we split up for a day excursion at 8.40am. DL, DK, SC & MS went across the Langtang to the birch wood on the north facing slopes. MW went north up towards the glacier and screes.

MW and Sukaram (on of our Sherpa guides) headed up past the monastery and the cheese factory, then on following a small stream up the east side of the valley. They scoured the scree areas and had lunch at the top overlooking Langtang Lirung. The Japanese camp could just be seen nestled below the glacier. They tried to get onto the main ridge, but had to contour round across more scree. The scree areas had a few interesting plants, but relatively poor diversity of species. After skirting round some side ridges they dropped down into the eastern branch of the valley overlooking the glacier to the north. Low shrubs of Hippophae thibetica covered the valley floor and fully laden with sweet, orange berries. The way back was much faster than the ascent, and included running two long screes. They arrived back at camp at 2.15, just before DL.

DL, DK, SC and MS decided to visit the Birch Wood (Betula utilis) on the south side of the Langtang valley, which looked highly promising from our camp across the valley. Retracing our steps from the previous day we went downstream, turned left and crossed the Langtang River on various tree trunks straddling the river. No sooner had we crossed the river than it was discovered that SC was '‘missing'’. The lure of the Birch wood had proved too strong! DL aided by Tara pressed on upwards to find his elusive liverwort Anastrophyllum joergensenii in a rocky valley above the woodland (close to the path leading to the Ganja La). DK and MS climbed up through the Betula forest with abundant fruiting Sorbus himalaica and occasional Prunus rufa. Above the tree line Rhododendron campanulatum became the dominant shrub. DK and MS had lunch looking east to the high peaks at the head of the Langtang valley then contoured round and in the process met DL and Tara heading downhill. Primula sikkimensis was abundant in boggy areas by the streams. DK and MS struck back for Kyanjin Gompa via the Betula forest marvelling at the age and size of the trees.

DL returned tired, but happy as he has managed to complete his sampling for the bryophyte population study. DK and MS arrive soon after, but no SC. Pema and Tara went off to find him and they all returned safely at 4.20pm. Sukaram bought us 1.5 litres of yak curd/yoghurt (150Rs), which was delicious. Much was collected today and processing the herbarium material and seed took us well into darkness. Dinner at 6.20. Much to MW’s disgust there were apricots again for dessert, but he brought out the last two Dundee cakes to raise spirits. Another cold clear night. The bottle of Ardbeg was finished today (it only lasted three days!).

Monday 15th October ~ Kyanjin Gompa, Langtang village, Ghora Tabela
Sometime during the night there was a lot of yak activity round our tents: bells ringing, yaks bellowing, ground stomping and herdsmen yelling. Luckily none stumbled into our tents. Two degrees in the tent this morning, minus seven degrees outside. There was ice on the inside of the work tent, but the lone heater kept on going and the presses were nice and warm. DK made an unexpectedly hasty exit from his tent (still in his sleeping bag). DL finished processing his mosses before breakfast. The sun was hot this morning, but there was a cool breeze. It did not take us long to descend to our previous lunch spot, and as this area was severely yak-grazed there was little that we had not collected on the way up. Once past the yak wall the vegetation improved and we made slower progress as the collecting improved. MW was particularly slow reaching the lunch site at Langtang Village. There were several large Umbellifers in good seed to attract his attention, and he managed to twist his ankle again along the narrow rocky path by the mani wall. We had a leisurely lunch in the sun. MW was able to retrieve his shaving brush as a local boy had found it and was happy to exchange it for a tip. After lunch we took it slowly, arriving at Ghora Tabela, 2950m, just before 3pm. There was a flurry of collecting just below Langtang, with a big Verbascum, Lonicera and Silene. This was a lovely campsite on the banks of the Langtang, surrounded by shrubs and trees. As this is mainly a watering hole, and not a regular night stop, there are no major hotels. 100Rs was too high a price for a can of Coke, so we waited for our tea. The inner lining of MW and SC’s tent collapsed last night and was 'repaired' with a bulldog clip from the drying frame. As per usual after a good day’s collecting, we finished pressing as darkness descended. We were short of kerosene so only able to use one heater tonight.

Tuesday 16th October ~ Ghora Tabela, Lama Hotel, Bamboo Hotel
Although it was not as cold as the highest camp, we were in a steep narrow gorge and cold enough to need full down duvet gear in the morning. The high mountains mean that it took longer for the sun to reach our tents, but the views of the sun rising above the ridge and spilling into the forest more than made up for it. This was not a memorable day for plants. The morning was cool for most of the time, and we were moving through forest. The huge stinging leaves of Girardinia were spectacular hanging over the path, so we bravely collected it (the stings even penetrated the plastic bags we used for mitts). Lunch at Lama Hotel, MW finally discovering the hunk of stale cake put in his rucksack by DL & DK some days before (so thats what all the cryptic comments about mice have been about!). By now the sun had risen high above the valley sides and it was getting hot. The little black flies were now fully active and an irritation at these lower altitudes. Several large trekking groups passed us today. One had two small (under 5) children carried by porters. It was good to see people battling up when we were descending! It did not take us long to reach Bamboo hotel, and our tents were already almost set up as we arrived at 3pm. Today there was time for washing and domestic chores before attending to the plants. DL spotted four Goral (wild goats) on the steep rocky hillside opposite and we watched them for ages. Thankfully the trek staff managed to buy some extra kerosene and we were able to put two heaters under the full drying frame tonight. Once the work for the day was complete we went down the local pub...well to the nearest lodge on the riverside!.

Wednesday 17th October ~ Bamboo Hotel, Thulo Syabru
It was a much warmer night, and a mild start to the day. One of the heaters had faded rapidly during the night, but the other was fine. We should have bought different coloured wick stoves so that we could easily spot the duff one. An easy walk in the morning through the mixed broadleaf evergreen forest to Hot Springs. Leaving at 8 we still only took 2 hours. SC went on ahead. The forest was not a rich source of new flowering plant collections, but DL took it slowly and got over 50 bryophytes: his best haul yet. The forest started with Lithocarpus dominant then went to Michelia, and finally Alnus nepalensis. In some places the path was littered with fallen petals from the Michelia flowers born high overhead, and you could smell their heady aroma. After lunch it was a long, hot slog up and over the ridge to drop down to the side valley and across the bridge to Thulo Syabru. We did the first ascent (nearly 300m) in 45 minutes, head down and a steady pace. The vegetation was quite degraded, particularly the herb layer. Keeping going we crossed the bridge and made the long, more gradual ascent to Thulo Syabru, reaching it around 2am, everyone was very tired and dripping with sweat. Most of the day we were in shade or semi-shade, but the last long haul up to Thulo Syabru was in full sun. We settled into our old campsite, DK negotiating 4 bottles of beer for 500Rs. These were ‘cooled’ in wet walking socks. SC and DK had a lot of seed processing to take care of, while DL and MW attended to the herbarium collections. We were reunited with the materials that we had left in store, and repacked the bags ready for the last day’s trek tomorrow. Although we were lower down now, the evening was cool: certainly colder than when we were here before. Dinner outside in the failing light, was finished by candlelight. It started to rain at 7pm so we retired under canvas. SC tumbled down the 6ft drop outside his tent onto the terrace below, luckily no (physical) harm done.

Thursday 18th October ~ Thulo Syabru, Dhunche
In the morning the grass was wet from the overnight rain, and the air cool. Packing is now down to a fine art and we are ready to leave at 7.40am. Tara went on ahead with a letter and plant list (written up by Mahendra) for the National Park office in Dhunche so that we can take our collections out. The start of the walk was up through beautiful blue pine woodland, mostly in shade. Not a great deal of new flowering plants to collect, but good for bryophytes. We passed through Brabal and Barkhu. Even without hurrying we reached Nawor Hotel, the lunch spot, early at 10.30. It was here that we started to meet other trekkers coming up from Dhunche. The afternoon’s walk was easy at first, not too much up and down, but once we hit the road it was a hot, dry slog up, then down to the river, and a final ascent to Dhunche. We had to make a detour around a swarm of bees on the path at one place (we were warned by some helpful kids). SC went on ahead as usual, DL and MW in the middle, and DK bring up the rear. We were pretty spread out along the road by the time we reached Dhunche at about 1.30. Time to relax with a drink, shoot some pool (50Rs a go and a good table) and restore our energy levels. We were well ahead of the porters so settled down for some ‘quality time’, MW finding a source of good samosas. We decided to camp this time, and got a good campsite overlooking the high street: much better than a lodge (but we were not soaking wet this time!). Nima and wife came in the coach to meet us, arriving at 4.30. This means that the road is passable across the landslide, and we should have no problems returning. DL bought some fancy cakes to have with our tea.

DL presented the porters with their tips at dusk. Dinner was a wonderful fresh chicken soup followed by daal bhat with roast chicken curry. The kitchen staff had bought a chicken and dispatched it during the afternoon. Nima bought some beers which went down well with the food. At the end of the meal Pema presented us with a wonderful cake decorated with beaten egg white and piped mixed fruit jam saying "Happy End of Trek to You". A bottle of Nepalese Bagpiper whisky was also produced, but is an acquired taste and we passed it on to the trek staff. We took an after dinner stroll up the darkened streets to sample the Dhunche night life. Unfortunately the pool hall had closed, so we ended up in a small restaurant for a last drink. Electricity failed a couple of times, and eventually gave up entirely, so we were back on candles. Returning back to camp SC missed his footing in the dark and stepped in the open sewer at the side of the road. His trousers and boots were covered in muck and had to be left outside the tent. Needless to say he got lots of sympathy! Settling down to bed MW & SC discovered that they have a mouse visitor in the tent with them. Lots of noise and hilarity as they try and remove it (SC rather shocked, MW in fits of laughter). During the night there were rats running up and down the outside of the tents, so the terraces we are camping on must be riddled with rodent burrows. Noisy dogs.

Friday 19th October ~ Dhunche, Kathmandu
The bus was loaded and ready to go by 7.30am: all available space packed with equipment, trek staff and finally us. By now life in the main street was in full swing with people buzzing around the shops, checking spaces on buses, or just walking through. Periodically flocks of sheep and goats were driven through, adding to the chaos. The Diwali festival is approaching, and these animals were at the start of a long walk to Kathmandu where they will be sold for a sacrificial offering. Soon we were off, and after a short stop at the Park Checkpoint we at last were out on the open road. It only took half an hour to reach the landslide in much more comfortable conditions to the way in! The landslide area still looked pretty rough, but most of it could be driven with care. Some lorries needed help getting up, and were hooked up to the dumper truck for a tow across the difficult stretches. Clearing the landslide took 25 minutes, but it was interesting to see the methods of road building as we walked down. The road down from the highlands into the subtropical valleys was very bumpy with lots of switch backs. Most of us were sleepy, but the continuous jolting bus was not conducive to napping. We arrived at Trisuli Bazaar at 10.40 where the metalled road starts and we stopped for lunch. DL presented tips to the Sherpas and Kitchen Staff. This was only a short stop and we were on the road again by 11.10.

We arrived in Kathmandu around 2pm and immediately run into a traffic jam. It is easy to forget these horrors of city life when you have been away in the sticks. We looped round the ring road calling at Nima's house to off load trek gear and staff and pick up left luggage. As the bus could not go into central Thamel we had to stop outside and move everything into two taxis to take us on to the Hotel Utse (3.30pm). We relaxed with late afternoon drinks and snack on the hotel roof before dinner at the Nepali Kitchen. Later that evening we went over to the British Embassy compound as we had been invited to Alison Garrity's birthday party. It was a lovely warm evening (shirt sleeves) spent with good company that continued late into the night. Needless to say we had to wake up the night porter again to let us into the hotel!

Saturday 20th October ~ Kathmandu
Today was spent hard at work preparing the collections and sorting out the equipment. Some of the specimens had not dried so we finished them off by laying them out on the hotel roof garden. DK & SC spent the morning up on the roof garden sorting the seeds. DL attended to his mosses (was this the first use of his binocular microscope?). MW sorting out the equipment to leave behind for Krishna Shrestha and Tribhuvan University. After coffee DL & MW took over the corridor firstly sorting the herbarium specimens in to number order and then splitting them into four sets: one for the national herbarium, one for Tribhuvan University, and two to take with us back to Edinburgh. Mahendra Subedi came round after lunch to pick up DL's revised moss list. We have to submit a list of all that we collected in order to get an export permit. MS kindly wrote up the higher plant list from the collecting book DL had to do the mosses as he kept separate records. Processing the collections is hard work and by late afternoon we were all tired. The wind gets up in the afternoons and children put it to good use flying their kites from the rooftops. Unfortunately it played havoc with our drying specimens and several Sorbus specimens were blown about the roof garden. Later Nima arrived on his scooter and he and his family took us out to a Thai restaurant for dinner with live Nepali music. A memorable evening, excellent food, and for once we arrived back before the main shutters of the hotel had been drawn.

Sunday 21st October ~ Kathmandu
Our last full day in Nepal. Sorting the collections needed to be finished this morning so we made an early start and did and hour and a half before breakfast. DL & MW finished splitting the herbarium specimens by 10. DK was the man with the digital camera, and he kept an excellent record of the expedition and the collecting procedures. In search of a high angle shot of the ‘splitting table’ he stood on a chair and promptly put his foot through the seat (another chair bites the dust!). Needless to say there was much ribbing following the Dhunche incident. With the work completed there was time for some shopping. DL & MW took a rickshaw to New Road to check out the electrical goods: DL buying a 12 band world receiver radio. Krishna and colleagues from Tribhuvan University visited the hotel around 4 to collect the specimens and equipment we were leaving, and to say our farewells. Later the trek staff, Nima and family visited to say their goodbyes and present us with gifts. This evening Mahendra generously invited us to dinner, and we went with his wife and son to a new Nepalese restaurant opposite KC's. It was a terrace restaurant with glass-walled kitchen in view. Twelve chefs, immaculate in whites and tall hats, beavered away preparing the excellent food: daal bhat tarkari with a difference!

Monday 22nd October ~ Kathmandu, Abu Dhabi
With our work complete we had the morning free and first part of the afternoon free. All our gear was packed up by 3.30, and our 12 items of hold luggage lined up in the hotel lounge. To ease security delays we decided to only take one small shoulder bag each as hand luggage. We had to leave at 4.30, but Ron McBeath and party (including Elspeth McIntosh from RBGE, Julia Corden, Jim Sutherland and Steve Macnamara) were due to arrive and there was the chance that we would overlap. Ron was trekking with Nima’s company and was due to stay in the Hotel Utse. Fortunately Ron was not greatly delayed and arrived at 4, so there was a little time to welcome them and share stories over a cold drink, and for DL to hand back Ron's wide angle camera lens. Nima accompanied us to the airport on his scooter, Pema and Sukaram joined us in the bus. The trip took a long time through the Kathmandu rush hour, but we arrived in time and thankfully there were no queues at check-in. We said our final farewells, and were given silk scarves to wish us well on our travels. There were no problems clearing our hold luggage, and we had the appropriate export documentation for our collections from the Department of Plant Resources. There were no delays and having waited for a short time in the crowded departure lounge we boarded at 6.30pm

We took off at 7.10pm, 5 minutes early! Flight time to Abu Dhabi is 4 hours 20 minutes, 411 miles. We landed at 9.40pm local time, 10 minutes ahead of schedule, disembarking into an uncomfortable temperature of 28°C and high humidity, then onto an ice-cold shuttle bus. There was a scrum at the Transfer Desk with several big queues, but DL did a swift manoeuvre up an empty channel and saved us a lot of hanging around (much to annoyance of those in the other lines!). Time for coffee and cake, and a spot of retail therapy in the duty free shops. Shopping is limited here, and not all that cheap for electrical goods. However, the local dates and pistachio nuts are very good value. We boarded the onward flight at 11.20pm, which finally took off at 10 minutes past midnight. Firstly a 280 mile, 45 minute leg to Bahrain, change planes, then 3168 miles to London, 7 hour flight time.