Some dry plants were coming out of the presses as we now have the help of the drying frame. We set off at 7am. The first leg of the morning was across more of the Tumlingtar plateau and further fertile farmland, followed by a steady ascent along the ridge through degraded Schima/ Sal forest up to Khandbari, the old main
regional centre. There were good views back down the valley as we gained altitude. Happily it was a bit cooler than yesterday. Lunch was set up along the main trail at Dhunga Dhara, 800m, 10am, and we collected a few plants nearby. We reached Khandbari, 1030m, soon after midday, where some handsome trees of Bauhinia were in flower. This township has impressive houses, a marble-paved main street, and many bustling shops selling just about everything. SC bought some shorts. There was a fenced off square of grass in the middle of the town with two old tractors parked: an odd sight this far north of the road head. There are no cars here. We registered with the police check-point. There is an army camp and police outpost here, with guns pointing to the north. Nevertheless Maoist undercover activity was obvious from the slogans painted on the walls and the absence of beer in the shops (there were piles of old empty bottles showing that this was once in common supply). After Khandbari there were slightly fewer houses and the path followed the ridge top; cooler up here. On the way out MW got a ticking off for collecting a specimen off a fragrant Jasmine from a front garden. Camp was at Mane Bhanjyang, 1100m, just above a rather damp football pitch. This evening we put both burners under the drying frame.
Almost all plants dry in the presses. Football pitch flooded but our camp was OK. We departed only a little later than normal at 7.30am. The morning’s walk was arduous in the sunshine up the steaming ridge through cultivated fields and patches of degraded Schima/ Castanopsis forest to the pass at 1910m. There was only one Pepsi stop today, but at 50Rs per bottle it was one of the most expensive so far. Many new houses and tea shops have been built here recently (new immigration) and the forest has been wrecked since the EMAK expedition in 1991. Lunch (Spam fritters and chips) was set up en route, during which DL sustained the first leech bite on a tender region when squatting in the bushes. Needless to say there were plenty of comments and not much sympathy from the rest of the team! After the pass, 1850m, we entered nice cool temperate evergreen forest which was untouched in 1991, but areas were now severely degraded with Cardamom underplanting. A new road was also being cut through the area linking it to Num, and taking the inevitable toll on the landscape and vegetation. On the way up to the pass we could see lines of people walking ahead. When we reached Chichila we could see why. There was a local gathering organised by the Maoists to protest over local landowners getting money for planting cardamom in mist forests. People had walked for several hours for this rally.
Cardamom is an important cash crop, approved by the Nepali government, but little returns to the local people and it is their forests that are being ruined. The trail down to Chichila was rather minor compared to the south side of the pass, and at times we wondered if we were on the right path. The red clay was very slippery after all the recent rain. The best bits of forest were near the pass, for as we approached Chichila the trees thinned and degradation increased. We were able to pass through the gathering without being stopped, but we could see that a few people had hand guns and were overseeing what was going on. On leaving the village we passed a small shop where tongba (weak local millet beer) had been thrown across the path. Later we were told that the Maoists had raided the shop and beaten up the landlady for ‘illegally’ selling alcohol. It was a strange end to a tiring day. Camp, 1830m, is in a school yard, and we were soon joined by a few local children interested in what we are doing. Some leeches about and DK sustained a bite. Spaghetti for supper and a wonderful apple pie. Pressing took a long time as we had collected a lot. Tonight also saw the end of the bottle of Glenfiddich 12yro.
The porters have been going for 5 days without a break, it will be difficult to break camp in the rain, and it is a long way to our next camp at Num. We discussed the options and decided to stay and catch up on chores, and also collect in the evergreen forest around the village. The kerosene heaters did not work so well last night and little was dry. We have a full drying frame so the chance to keep the burners on all day and clear some specimens was welcome. By the time that we had sorted through the presses and re-rigged the drying
frame the sky had cleared and the sun appeared. A brief tantalising glimpse of high snowy mountains. DL and DK made a collecting trip down into the forest which is slowly being cleared all around for cardamom. The rest day gave us a rare chance to dry our wet kit and recently washed clothes: walking socks take a long time to dry. It is usually misty up at this altitude with low cloud. This is great for plants, but nothing dries and everything feels damp. DK administered First Aid to a local lad who had badly cut his hand chopping wood with a khukuri. His hand was a bloody mess with one finger cut through to the bone. Dr Knott coped well cleaning the wound, but the lad will have to have further treatment as it is badly swollen.
Just after lunch two Maoist soldiers appeared dressed in Chinese army fatigues, one wielding an old shotgun and a motley array of ammunition. He made great play of showing that the gun was loaded, flicking the safety off and on.
They looked a little nervous, and Mahendra and the Sherpas were also subdued. The situation is serious. It transpires that the Maoists have come into the area over the last 6 months, taking charge of the local population. The two Maoist militia hung around for an hour, talking to the trek staff and the porters. Apparently they asked for a lot of money, but Pema kept his cool and resolved the situation. At 3pm they disappeared. The local school teacher advised that the Maoists may return in the night and loot our gear (especially sleeping bags, binoculars, GPS, etc.). After a serious discussion we decide that it is too risky to carry on the trek as even if we did get past Num we would be trapped up the Barun Khola if trouble flared up. Pema said that there were 1600 Maoist troops in the area, mainly at Num and Shidua. This took the wind from our sails, and the mood at dinner was subdued. We made a donation of 500Rs to the school for the camping ground. MW broke out the ‘luxury’ rations and we feasted on Dundee cake. We retired to bed rather fearful of what the night may bring.
There was heavy rain again during the night, but this time it may have worked in our favour in deterring a Maoist raid. Fortunately our sleep was not interrupted, though the Sherpas told us there had been an earth tremor in the night. There was a predictably damp start to the day, leaving at 7am with tents still wet. The first leg of the journey was back up to the pass in misty rain, and we unfurled our umbrellas for the first time. Some good collections were gathered (it is easier to spot plants and collect going uphill), but the red clay paths were even more treacherous. It took 2 hours to walk to the pass, with lunch the other side at Bhote Bas, 1750m, at 10am.
MW took a leech bite on the stomach and turned his ankle over on the way down to Mani Bhanjyang. We collected some paddy field weeds including Eriocaulon on the way down.
Pema phoned Kathmandu from Mani Bhanjyang, and Nima was able to start sorting things out back in the city. DL phoned the British Consulate (Jon Goddard) who was interested in our experiences, and wanted to meet us later for a debriefing session. Pema also arranged seats on a plane for Sunday back to Kathmandu. We stopped at an excellent campsite tonight, on a flat-topped hillock off the main street of Khandbari. Local children pestered us and were very annoying: we were hot, tired and intolerant. It was quite a clear, warm evening.
Porridge for breakfast. The heaters did well last night (a warmer climate and lower altitude), and almost all the specimens were dry. This was good as we were not likely to get the drying frame in operation again until we returned to Kathmandu. The morning’s walk was in the bright sun for most of the way, so it was hot and hard going. It was market day in Khandbari and there was a constant stream of heavily laden farmers and villagers walking up the trail as we went down. Piglets and hens in baskets, sacks of grain, and a variety of produce was all carried up on people’s backs. DL bought Thursday's newspaper as we left Khandbari and after a while we settled down under a shady building to relax and watch the world go by. To our surprise a French climbing expedition plodded past us up the steep path heading for Makalu. They were spread out and already looking pretty tired. We met hundreds of porters heading uphill. SC went on ahead. The rest of us took our time and arrived in Tumlingtar just before lunch. The route down has good views across the airstrip, and we arrived in time to see a plane take off. We stayed in Hotel Kanchenjunga, only a field away from the airport. SC must have really cracked on as had been here since 9.30. After lunch DL gave a tip of 100Rs to each of the nine porters who were being paid off.
Tara (one of our Sherpa guides) left with remaining porters to walk to Hile (1.5 days for them) and take the trek equipment back to Kathmandu. A siren in the airport alerts people when the plane leaves Kathmandu and again when it arrives at Tumlingtar. There is not much to do here so when the siren went off we trooped across the field to wait for the landing. The heat is oppressive, and there is little shade around the airstrip. On the side of the runway lay the remains of an old plane that failed to make a good landing: wings and tail fin have been taken off. The air strip is fine for the twin props that use it, and there is a clear approach up the valley. You can hear the planes before you see them, the characteristic low hum of the motors reverberating around the valleys as the plane slowly crept towards us. The aircrew do not lose much time in changing around, and the propellers are stopped only briefly. 14 passengers disembarked quickly, soon followed by their luggage. The plane is loaded and its away…very efficient. Back at the hotel the ceiling fans gave some relief from the heat and humidity, but the electricity is frustratingly intermittant. A tiny TV in the meeting room was tuned to BBC World News and gave us our first news for several days. There was still much talk and accusation between USA and Afghanistan, and the situation did not look good.
indicating the plane has taken off from Kathmandu. DK and SC were recalled from the terminal building back to the hotel for lunch (noodles) as we waited for the second siren. The siren sounded again as were finishing lunch, and soon we were on the plane (13.00). Bumpy take-off. The flight was spectacular, flying low over the ridges and valleys of lowland Nepal. The land is intensively cultivated (mostly rice), and hardly any forest is left. Some areas are now laid waste and useless. The lack of roads and the extensive systems of footpaths are very noticeable from the air. Flight time was just 45 minutes.
After breakfast we sent emails back home to let people know what has been happening. DL & DK had to go to DPR to see about permits. They met Vaidya, Mahendra and Keshab Rajbhandari and held discussions about permits to collect in Langtang National Park. Mahendra agreed to pursue permits. MW and SC were able to use the time to unpack the specimens collected so far, and sort them in to numerical order, ready for division into four sets: 1st E, 2nd KATH, 3rd E, 4th Tribhuvan University. We had 112 numbers in the bag and almost everything is in four good sets. Everything dried nicely, apart from a Cucurbitaceae vine whose fleshy fruits went a little mouldy. The specimens were not bone dry, but rather floppy: probably because of the humidity. The weather was warm, and overcast with occasional light showers. DK & DL returned after lunch laden with copies of Flora of Nepal fascicles produced by DPR, a Flora of Langtang reprint,
and other bits and pieces. The afternoon was spent rationalising our kit (leaving behind superfluous materials) and shopping. We commissioned a T shirt for Steve Blackmore with "Flora of Nepal - Yak Yak Yak". We all went down to Durbar square, but as they have now introduced an entry charge of 200Rs to enter the precinct we could not cross to DL’s favourite tea shop. After a long walk we found ourselves facing ‘Fruit Bat Alley’ (Kanti Path). For some reason we were reminded of the first leech bite. Freshly ground coffee at one of the new coffee houses was a treat. Tonight we spent by ourselves so we opted for aperitifs in an Irish pub (Guinness brewed under licence in Nepal) and then a slap up meal in K-too steakhouse. There was live music from Nepali bands in both. The restaurant went quiet at 10 so we returned to the Irish Pub (Paddy Foley's). The streets were dark and deserted as we made our way back to the hotel. It felt like a curfew.
A rest day. Bhaktapur in the morning, shopping/packing in the afternoon. We hired a taxi for 5 hours (800Rs) to drive us to Bhaktapur and back. Leaving around 9, it was a hot and dusty 45 minute ride to get to Bhaktapur through the rush hour traffic. The centre of Bhaktapur has a $10 entrance fee, but justified by the considerable
effort that is made to improve the area and facilities. The streets are much quieter than Kathmandu
, and there is less bother from street sellers. However, the beggars are much more troublesome, and the ‘kind’ actions of some tourist groups only makes things worse for everyone else. Newari wood carvings in the buildings are spectacular and in fine condition. We had lunch (soup and pakoras) on a first floor balcony overlooking one of the main squares. Cloth dyeing in another square (by a pool), also a paper-making factory near the car park with hand-made paper drying in the sun. The drive back had everyone nodding off. General shopping in the afternoon and a ‘radical repack’ ready for an early depart tomorrow. KC's for evening meal, and an early night.